Cage traps (also referred to as "box" traps) are used to catch both domestic and wild animals in a safe, humane manner. They're rectangular, made in different sizes, and built primarily of heavy-duty wire. Their sturdy, all-metal construction is designed to withstand constant outdoor use and resist damage. Small traps, used for creatures like skunks or squirrels, are often seen in hardware or farm feed stores. A rear door (optional feature) makes it easier to release animals, arrange blankets, and refresh food. A four-foot long trap can be handled with relative ease, but a five-footer can be cumbersome to move. The six-foot traps are heavy, thus difficult to carry without a dolly or assistance from another person. You need a roomy vehicle, such as a truck, van, or SUV, when transporting one of the larger traps.
Every locality has a person in charge of matters relating to animals. Common titles for this position include "Animal Control Officer, Humane Officer, or Dog Warden." Notify this officer that your dog is lost, and then ask about securing a trap - before you need it. Animal control and care professionals who don't have a trap, or just need a different size, can usually find and borrow one from an associate. You can also call rescue leagues, humane societies, and rescue groups for help or information. A trap should be responsibly set and cared for by an experienced person who's familiar with its regulated use. Some communities have a restriction called a "tie up" policy that requires a trap be tied open or shut down, usually from nightfall until daybreak. Established law sets minimum times required for monitoring.
One style of cage trap has a folding, spring-loaded entry door. Prior to setup, this door is always in a closed position, its frame latched and held securely by one or two hefty clips that are located on top of the trap, towards the front. To open the trap, pull up on the clip/s, push the top part of the door in and lift the lower part up. Hold the door up for now, otherwise it will spring back, latch, and close. Look inside the top right corner of the trap for a small, wire hook connected to a long rod that runs down to the floor.
Pull on the rod to adjust the hook so it catches on the wire grid of the door - and holds it up and open.
The other end of the rod is attached to a rectangular, solid-metal plate - the trip mechanism. Moving the rod engages the plate and makes it rise and fall. A trap is "set" when the door is hooked and the plate is raised. If an animal steps on the trip plate with enough pressure to flatten it, the rod will pull on the hook and make it slip off the wire grid, thus releasing the door so it can spring shut and trap the animal inside. A small adjustment can be made to the amount of pressure needed to trip the plate by either snagging the hook completely onto the wire, or just barely catching on it. Counterweights are discussed below.
A second style of trap features a different design for both door and trip mechanism. The door is securely closed with metal rings on each side, near the bottom. Each ring "joins" a bar from the door's frame with a bar of main frame. Slide the rings up, then lift the door open - and hold it. Look inside the top corner for a short rod off the door, and a long rod along the top. Both have a short 90-degree hook at the end. To hold the door open, rest the hooked ends on one another. To adjust the trip pressure, rest the hooks completely on each other, or just barely touching. Don't let the door fall and catch a finger. The trip mechanism is a square pad of wire that rests just above the floor. A length of chain connects the pad to the long rod above. If an animal steps down hard and depresses the trip pad, the chain will pull the long rod back far enough so it unhooks itself from the short rod. This action allows the rings to fall down and release the door so it can close and trap the animal inside.
If a trap is too big for the size and weight of the lost dog (smaller dogs especially), its trip mechanism should be adjusted for pressure sensitivity. Place a rock or brick on the trip plate or pad - off to the side and away from the rod or chain, leaving room for the dog to step through. Test the trap by simulating the dog's weight and applying pressure to the trip plate or pad until it trips. You can test using a dog of similar size (best), your hands (very good), or by poking a stick on it (only tests basic trap function).
The best location to put a trap is in the immediate area where you have one or more verified sightings. DON'T DELAY. Knock on doors, pass out fliers, and tell people your dog's been seen in the vicinity.
To encourage animal-friendly residents to offer the use of their yards, mention that you're looking for places your dog may find attractive so you can set up a cage trap. You must secure permission from a landowner before placing a trap on private property. If not sure who owns a parcel, ask the neighbors, police, or call the local assessor's office. If people let you use their property, treat it respectfully and be considerate of people's right to privacy. Many residents won't appreciate you walking through their yard with a flashlight at 10 PM and making a lot of noise. Choose the location where to set a trap carefully.
Overly curious children, a noisy yard, or "happy to help" adults, can hinder your best efforts. A good site allows the dog to wander up to a trap without feeling threatened, and makes it relatively easy for you to monitor without disturbing anyone. A trap should be sheltered next to a building or solid fence, placed near the beginning of a path the dog used, or set at the edge of a lawn abutting a field or wooded area.
If needed, level the ground to ensure the trap remains steady and doesn't wobble when a dog steps inside.
Dogs are always looking for food, so make the bait irresistible! Meatballs with red sauce, turkey meat, peanut butter smeared on meat, and of course, wet dog food. Cat food attracts cats very quickly.
De-bone meats unless using a solid beef bone - don't risk having someone's pet choke on your bait food.
HOT DOGS make great bait food. Raw or cooked - easy to package, carry, and toss bite-size tidbits.
Place food in a small bowl and set it at the rear of cage. You can put a few tidbits in the entrance or leave a tiny appetizer outside. Don't leave food underneath the opened door. A dog could accidentally push it upward enough to dislodge the hooks and the door will close rapidly - just as if the trap was tripped.
Don't leave too much food outside a trap - the goal is to entice a hungry dog inside to get the main meal. Try to make the food hard to reach so the dog will step more forcefully on the trip plate. Attach hot dogs or a hunk of solid meat to the top rear corner of the cage using a sturdy cord (string is a choking hazard). Affix bacon strips or hot dogs to a paper plate and attach to the back wall. Insects, small rodents, warm weather, and freezing temperatures take a toll on food - so check and refresh the bait as needed.
Cold or frozen bait can be thawed in a plastic bag tossed on the dash with the defroster set on high.
Provide water in a bowl and keep it filled - finding a natural source may lead the dog out of the area.
Local pets often steal food left outside during the day. A number of animals, including the lost dog, can steal food left outside all night. With luck, you'll find paw prints on the ground. If not, dusting the ground with fine wood ashes or powdered chalk may help you identify the food bandit.
A trap can still be set, look undisturbed, and yet the bowl is empty. An animal can steal the bait and leave with a full belly if it isn't heavy enough to trip a trap. Lost dogs are cautious and tend to stretch out their bodies when entering traps. They can also lean over trip plates to steal food, and carefully back out with their prize. A cage should be long enough to accommodate the length of a dog when standing, fully stretched out just at the trip mechanism. If it isn't, a tripped door may attempt to close but hit the dog's rump instead. The dog will be trapped if it moves forward - but if it backs up far enough, the door will be cleared to spring shut, leaving the dog outside and still "lost."
Every locality has a person in charge of matters relating to animals. Common titles for this position include "Animal Control Officer, Humane Officer, or Dog Warden." Notify this officer that your dog is lost, and then ask about securing a trap - before you need it. Animal control and care professionals who don't have a trap, or just need a different size, can usually find and borrow one from an associate. You can also call rescue leagues, humane societies, and rescue groups for help or information. A trap should be responsibly set and cared for by an experienced person who's familiar with its regulated use. Some communities have a restriction called a "tie up" policy that requires a trap be tied open or shut down, usually from nightfall until daybreak. Established law sets minimum times required for monitoring.
One style of cage trap has a folding, spring-loaded entry door. Prior to setup, this door is always in a closed position, its frame latched and held securely by one or two hefty clips that are located on top of the trap, towards the front. To open the trap, pull up on the clip/s, push the top part of the door in and lift the lower part up. Hold the door up for now, otherwise it will spring back, latch, and close. Look inside the top right corner of the trap for a small, wire hook connected to a long rod that runs down to the floor.
Pull on the rod to adjust the hook so it catches on the wire grid of the door - and holds it up and open.
The other end of the rod is attached to a rectangular, solid-metal plate - the trip mechanism. Moving the rod engages the plate and makes it rise and fall. A trap is "set" when the door is hooked and the plate is raised. If an animal steps on the trip plate with enough pressure to flatten it, the rod will pull on the hook and make it slip off the wire grid, thus releasing the door so it can spring shut and trap the animal inside. A small adjustment can be made to the amount of pressure needed to trip the plate by either snagging the hook completely onto the wire, or just barely catching on it. Counterweights are discussed below.
A second style of trap features a different design for both door and trip mechanism. The door is securely closed with metal rings on each side, near the bottom. Each ring "joins" a bar from the door's frame with a bar of main frame. Slide the rings up, then lift the door open - and hold it. Look inside the top corner for a short rod off the door, and a long rod along the top. Both have a short 90-degree hook at the end. To hold the door open, rest the hooked ends on one another. To adjust the trip pressure, rest the hooks completely on each other, or just barely touching. Don't let the door fall and catch a finger. The trip mechanism is a square pad of wire that rests just above the floor. A length of chain connects the pad to the long rod above. If an animal steps down hard and depresses the trip pad, the chain will pull the long rod back far enough so it unhooks itself from the short rod. This action allows the rings to fall down and release the door so it can close and trap the animal inside.
If a trap is too big for the size and weight of the lost dog (smaller dogs especially), its trip mechanism should be adjusted for pressure sensitivity. Place a rock or brick on the trip plate or pad - off to the side and away from the rod or chain, leaving room for the dog to step through. Test the trap by simulating the dog's weight and applying pressure to the trip plate or pad until it trips. You can test using a dog of similar size (best), your hands (very good), or by poking a stick on it (only tests basic trap function).
The best location to put a trap is in the immediate area where you have one or more verified sightings. DON'T DELAY. Knock on doors, pass out fliers, and tell people your dog's been seen in the vicinity.
To encourage animal-friendly residents to offer the use of their yards, mention that you're looking for places your dog may find attractive so you can set up a cage trap. You must secure permission from a landowner before placing a trap on private property. If not sure who owns a parcel, ask the neighbors, police, or call the local assessor's office. If people let you use their property, treat it respectfully and be considerate of people's right to privacy. Many residents won't appreciate you walking through their yard with a flashlight at 10 PM and making a lot of noise. Choose the location where to set a trap carefully.
Overly curious children, a noisy yard, or "happy to help" adults, can hinder your best efforts. A good site allows the dog to wander up to a trap without feeling threatened, and makes it relatively easy for you to monitor without disturbing anyone. A trap should be sheltered next to a building or solid fence, placed near the beginning of a path the dog used, or set at the edge of a lawn abutting a field or wooded area.
If needed, level the ground to ensure the trap remains steady and doesn't wobble when a dog steps inside.
Dogs are always looking for food, so make the bait irresistible! Meatballs with red sauce, turkey meat, peanut butter smeared on meat, and of course, wet dog food. Cat food attracts cats very quickly.
De-bone meats unless using a solid beef bone - don't risk having someone's pet choke on your bait food.
HOT DOGS make great bait food. Raw or cooked - easy to package, carry, and toss bite-size tidbits.
Place food in a small bowl and set it at the rear of cage. You can put a few tidbits in the entrance or leave a tiny appetizer outside. Don't leave food underneath the opened door. A dog could accidentally push it upward enough to dislodge the hooks and the door will close rapidly - just as if the trap was tripped.
Don't leave too much food outside a trap - the goal is to entice a hungry dog inside to get the main meal. Try to make the food hard to reach so the dog will step more forcefully on the trip plate. Attach hot dogs or a hunk of solid meat to the top rear corner of the cage using a sturdy cord (string is a choking hazard). Affix bacon strips or hot dogs to a paper plate and attach to the back wall. Insects, small rodents, warm weather, and freezing temperatures take a toll on food - so check and refresh the bait as needed.
Cold or frozen bait can be thawed in a plastic bag tossed on the dash with the defroster set on high.
Provide water in a bowl and keep it filled - finding a natural source may lead the dog out of the area.
Local pets often steal food left outside during the day. A number of animals, including the lost dog, can steal food left outside all night. With luck, you'll find paw prints on the ground. If not, dusting the ground with fine wood ashes or powdered chalk may help you identify the food bandit.
A trap can still be set, look undisturbed, and yet the bowl is empty. An animal can steal the bait and leave with a full belly if it isn't heavy enough to trip a trap. Lost dogs are cautious and tend to stretch out their bodies when entering traps. They can also lean over trip plates to steal food, and carefully back out with their prize. A cage should be long enough to accommodate the length of a dog when standing, fully stretched out just at the trip mechanism. If it isn't, a tripped door may attempt to close but hit the dog's rump instead. The dog will be trapped if it moves forward - but if it backs up far enough, the door will be cleared to spring shut, leaving the dog outside and still "lost."
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LOST DOGS TRAPPING - HUMANE CAGE TRAPS
Cage traps (also referred to as "box" traps) are used to catch both domestic and wild animals in a safe, humane manner. They're rectangular, made in different sizes, and built primarily of heavy-duty wire. Their sturdy, all-metal construction is designed to withstand constant outdoor use and resist damage. Small traps, used for creatures like skunks or squirrels, are often seen in hardware or farm feed stores. A rear door (optional feature) makes it easier to release animals, arrange blankets, and refresh food. A four-foot long trap can be handled with relative ease, but a five-footer can be cumbersome to move. The six-foot traps are heavy, thus difficult to carry without a dolly or assistance from another person. You need a roomy vehicle, such as a truck, van, or SUV, when transporting one of the larger traps.
Every locality has a person in charge of matters relating to animals. Common titles for this position include "Animal Control Officer, Humane Officer, or Dog Warden." Notify this officer that your dog is lost, and then ask about securing a trap - before you need it. Animal control and care professionals who don't have a trap, or just need a different size, can usually find and borrow one from an associate. You can also call rescue leagues, humane societies, and rescue groups for help or information. A trap should be responsibly set and cared for by an experienced person who's familiar with its regulated use. Some communities have a restriction called a "tie up" policy that requires a trap be tied open or shut down, usually from nightfall until daybreak. Established law sets minimum times required for monitoring.
One style of cage trap has a folding, spring-loaded entry door. Prior to setup, this door is always in a closed position, its frame latched and held securely by one or two hefty clips that are located on top of the trap, towards the front. To open the trap, pull up on the clip/s, push the top part of the door in and lift the lower part up. Hold the door up for now, otherwise it will spring back, latch, and close. Look inside the top right corner of the trap for a small, wire hook connected to a long rod that runs down to the floor.
Pull on the rod to adjust the hook so it catches on the wire grid of the door - and holds it up and open.
The other end of the rod is attached to a rectangular, solid-metal plate - the trip mechanism. Moving the rod engages the plate and makes it rise and fall. A trap is "set" when the door is hooked and the plate is raised. If an animal steps on the trip plate with enough pressure to flatten it, the rod will pull on the hook and make it slip off the wire grid, thus releasing the door so it can spring shut and trap the animal inside. A small adjustment can be made to the amount of pressure needed to trip the plate by either snagging the hook completely onto the wire, or just barely catching on it. Counterweights are discussed below.
A second style of trap features a different design for both door and trip mechanism. The door is securely closed with metal rings on each side, near the bottom. Each ring "joins" a bar from the door's frame with a bar of main frame. Slide the rings up, then lift the door open - and hold it. Look inside the top corner for a short rod off the door, and a long rod along the top. Both have a short 90-degree hook at the end. To hold the door open, rest the hooked ends on one another. To adjust the trip pressure, rest the hooks completely on each other, or just barely touching. Don't let the door fall and catch a finger. The trip mechanism is a square pad of wire that rests just above the floor. A length of chain connects the pad to the long rod above. If an animal steps down hard and depresses the trip pad, the chain will pull the long rod back far enough so it unhooks itself from the short rod. This action allows the rings to fall down and release the door so it can close and trap the animal inside.
If a trap is too big for the size and weight of the lost dog (smaller dogs especially), its trip mechanism should be adjusted for pressure sensitivity. Place a rock or brick on the trip plate or pad - off to the side and away from the rod or chain, leaving room for the dog to step through. Test the trap by simulating the dog's weight and applying pressure to the trip plate or pad until it trips. You can test using a dog of similar size (best), your hands (very good), or by poking a stick on it (only tests basic trap function).
The best location to put a trap is in the immediate area where you have one or more verified sightings. DON'T DELAY. Knock on doors, pass out fliers, and tell people your dog's been seen in the vicinity.
To encourage animal-friendly residents to offer the use of their yards, mention that you're looking for places your dog may find attractive so you can set up a cage trap. You must secure permission from a landowner before placing a trap on private property. If not sure who owns a parcel, ask the neighbors, police, or call the local assessor's office. If people let you use their property, treat it respectfully and be considerate of people's right to privacy. Many residents won't appreciate you walking through their yard with a flashlight at 10 PM and making a lot of noise. Choose the location where to set a trap carefully.
Overly curious children, a noisy yard, or "happy to help" adults, can hinder your best efforts. A good site allows the dog to wander up to a trap without feeling threatened, and makes it relatively easy for you to monitor without disturbing anyone. A trap should be sheltered next to a building or solid fence, placed near the beginning of a path the dog used, or set at the edge of a lawn abutting a field or wooded area.
If needed, level the ground to ensure the trap remains steady and doesn't wobble when a dog steps inside.
Dogs are always looking for food, so make the bait irresistible! Meatballs with red sauce, turkey meat, peanut butter smeared on meat, and of course, wet dog food. Cat food attracts cats very quickly.
De-bone meats unless using a solid beef bone - don't risk having someone's pet choke on your bait food.
HOT DOGS make great bait food. Raw or cooked - easy to package, carry, and toss bite-size tidbits.
Place food in a small bowl and set it at the rear of cage. You can put a few tidbits in the entrance or leave a tiny appetizer outside. Don't leave food underneath the opened door. A dog could accidentally push it upward enough to dislodge the hooks and the door will close rapidly - just as if the trap was tripped.
Don't leave too much food outside a trap - the goal is to entice a hungry dog inside to get the main meal. Try to make the food hard to reach so the dog will step more forcefully on the trip plate. Attach hot dogs or a hunk of solid meat to the top rear corner of the cage using a sturdy cord (string is a choking hazard). Affix bacon strips or hot dogs to a paper plate and attach to the back wall. Insects, small rodents, warm weather, and freezing temperatures take a toll on food - so check and refresh the bait as needed.
Cold or frozen bait can be thawed in a plastic bag tossed on the dash with the defroster set on high.
Provide water in a bowl and keep it filled - finding a natural source may lead the dog out of the area.
Local pets often steal food left outside during the day. A number of animals, including the lost dog, can steal food left outside all night. With luck, you'll find paw prints on the ground. If not, dusting the ground with fine wood ashes or powdered chalk may help you identify the food bandit.
A trap can still be set, look undisturbed, and yet the bowl is empty. An animal can steal the bait and leave with a full belly if it isn't heavy enough to trip a trap. Lost dogs are cautious and tend to stretch out their bodies when entering traps. They can also lean over trip plates to steal food, and carefully back out with their prize. A cage should be long enough to accommodate the length of a dog when standing, fully stretched out just at the trip mechanism. If it isn't, a tripped door may attempt to close but hit the dog's rump instead. The dog will be trapped if it moves forward - but if it backs up far enough, the door will be cleared to spring shut, leaving the dog outside and still "lost."
If the dog constantly goes up to a trap, but won't go inside, it might just need a little more time. If not, keep it coming back to the spot by feeding it. Multiple meals are okay, but don't overfeed. Offer a small amount of food, always using the same bowl, and gradually move it closer to the trap. When you finally put it inside, tempt the dog with a nice and fresh aromatic morsel just inside the entrance and make it want to go all the way past the trip pad for more of the good stuff.
Prepare a trap for success. Some dogs will back out of a trap once they step onto and feel bare wire.
To provide solid footing, cover the floor with a towel, rug, or small blanket. If it's going to rain or the ground is already soaked, a floor's cover will get wet. To help keep it dry, use a rubber bathmat, tarp, tablecloth, or shower curtain as a waterproof barrier. When used inside as a base layer for the floor, cover it with a towel or blanket, and check to make sure it won't be slippery when the dog steps inside. Make sure the trap doesn't slide around on top of a tarp or other slick surface. A small fleece blanket can be bunched up to disguise the natural rise of the trip plate but arrange carefully so it won't fall beneath a trip plate or trip pad. It won't work if not fully depressed as the dog is stepping on it. You can also place a stick a few inches in front of the trip plate. A dog must step over the stick and a paw should land directly on the trip plate. Adjust the stick's location to where you expect the dog to place its paw/s.
Familiar "scent" items, such as bedding, a hairbrush, or favorite toy, should be used to entice your dog into the trap - blankets to used as floor covers and most other items placed at the rear of the cage. To increase the odds a dog will trip the trap, tie a toy with a short line to the top rear corner of the trap so the dog has to really work his feet to get it. The person most bonded to the dog should place a worn and unwashed article of clothing, such as a T-shirt, inside the trap. To attract the dog, leave a pile of worn clothing in close proximity to the trap or at any sighting location. Things from a foster home, shelter or rescue worker can be used, as well as scent from another dog - if the lost dog is familiar and will be comforted by them. Fabric that smells of puppies may interest a female dog and evoke maternal instincts. The scent of a female dog in season should attract a male, whether he's neutered or not. Put items in a trap that your dog finds familiar or interesting, but leave enough room for it to walk in, turn around, and be comfortable for a short time. Cramming a big comforter into the trap reduces interior space, and may discourage a dog from going inside - unless you're trying to catch an extremely small dog. Long-arm grabber tongs help retrieve and arrange items inside.
Cage traps are covered to protect animals from exposure and keep the interior dry and more inviting. Covers made specifically to fit traps are available, but you can work a trap easily enough without them.
Tarps are inexpensive and old blankets are easy to find at a thrift store. Baby blankets provide coziness. Alternate layers for insulation and waterproofing, especially during cold weather with frigid winds. Wrap or trim covers so they don't fall or blow into the entrance and prevent the door from closing securely. Fix loose ends that might flap in the breeze and scare the dog away. Camouflage materials like burlap, pine boughs, leaves, and small branches help weigh down covers and make a trap more natural looking.
Dogs seem less suspicious of traps that are dressed like dens. A bale of straw provides insulation, can be torn apart easily and left most places when you're done with it. A little straw or a few leaves placed just inside the trap's entrance gives it a natural look and hides the few inches of exposed wire. Inside and out, the entrance must be clear of rocks, pinecones, sticks, and stumps that can keep a door from closing and latching shut. If the trap was dragged, check for debris underneath the trip plate and pad.
List two names with 24/7 contact phone numbers on a flier or piece of paper, seal it in a weatherproof bag, and attach to the trap in case of emergency. A small white cloth (or other noticeable color) may be attached to the entry so you can see from a distance if the door's been tripped. This tip isn't a substitute for walking up to the trap and checking on it as required, but can help with excessive monitoring.
Established law sets minimum times required to check traps, but more frequent monitoring is highly recommended, especially during extreme weather conditions. Time is precious and opportunities are wasted when a dog approaches a trap and an "unwanted guest" already occupies it. Residents won't appreciate your presence if their pets disappear and are found hours later in your trap. Monitoring reduces the problem of catching local pets that are allowed to wander on a routine basis.
ALWAYS wash your hands after handling things an animal might have licked, marked with urine, or left traces of blood or scat on, including dishes, bedding, toys, and the trap.
Anyone working traps needs to know how to release "guests" in a safe manner, before a situation arises. A trapped animal will be frightened and may try to defend itself with a chemical weapon (skunk), or intimidate you by showing its sharp teeth. Many will back up into a corner of the cage when they see you approach. Watch your fingers when you open an exit door; then walk away to give them space and a few minutes to come out on their own. If the trap is covered and you approach wicked slowly, without excess body movements, you may not get skunked.
Don't rush to let your dog out of a trap without thinking. A caged dog is often scared, excited, and confused - and can bolt out the door - right past your waiting arms. If possible, transport the trap to a home, vet's office, or animal shelter, and then release your dog inside the building. If your dog is not known to be a jumper or a climber, you can use a kennel enclosure or a secure yard with tall fencing.
WARNING! If you're small enough to fit in the trap - STOP before you crawl in to make adjustments.
If the trap has a spring-loaded door: Prop up the door with a sturdy stick, keep a leg outside the entrance, and bring a cell phone and a couple of wire coat hangers inside with you. It's easier than you think to accidentally depress the trip mechanism and get trapped inside. If there's a rear door, you unhook its handle at top on the trap and push the door up so you can crawl out. If not, you must bend a hanger and use it to push the entry door's latching clip/s up, and then reach through the wire grids to pull the door towards you. The job is not easy. It's scary to hear a trap door slam down behind you, and a humbling experience to be so stupid. Don't put yourself at risk if you don't know how to get out a trap or don't have the means to do so, especially in remote locations or in foul weather. It's funny after you're safely outside. Been there, done that, and caught myself in three sizes of traps. Got the witnesses to prove it.
© 2005 Debbie Hall - Used With Permission
Every locality has a person in charge of matters relating to animals. Common titles for this position include "Animal Control Officer, Humane Officer, or Dog Warden." Notify this officer that your dog is lost, and then ask about securing a trap - before you need it. Animal control and care professionals who don't have a trap, or just need a different size, can usually find and borrow one from an associate. You can also call rescue leagues, humane societies, and rescue groups for help or information. A trap should be responsibly set and cared for by an experienced person who's familiar with its regulated use. Some communities have a restriction called a "tie up" policy that requires a trap be tied open or shut down, usually from nightfall until daybreak. Established law sets minimum times required for monitoring.
One style of cage trap has a folding, spring-loaded entry door. Prior to setup, this door is always in a closed position, its frame latched and held securely by one or two hefty clips that are located on top of the trap, towards the front. To open the trap, pull up on the clip/s, push the top part of the door in and lift the lower part up. Hold the door up for now, otherwise it will spring back, latch, and close. Look inside the top right corner of the trap for a small, wire hook connected to a long rod that runs down to the floor.
Pull on the rod to adjust the hook so it catches on the wire grid of the door - and holds it up and open.
The other end of the rod is attached to a rectangular, solid-metal plate - the trip mechanism. Moving the rod engages the plate and makes it rise and fall. A trap is "set" when the door is hooked and the plate is raised. If an animal steps on the trip plate with enough pressure to flatten it, the rod will pull on the hook and make it slip off the wire grid, thus releasing the door so it can spring shut and trap the animal inside. A small adjustment can be made to the amount of pressure needed to trip the plate by either snagging the hook completely onto the wire, or just barely catching on it. Counterweights are discussed below.
A second style of trap features a different design for both door and trip mechanism. The door is securely closed with metal rings on each side, near the bottom. Each ring "joins" a bar from the door's frame with a bar of main frame. Slide the rings up, then lift the door open - and hold it. Look inside the top corner for a short rod off the door, and a long rod along the top. Both have a short 90-degree hook at the end. To hold the door open, rest the hooked ends on one another. To adjust the trip pressure, rest the hooks completely on each other, or just barely touching. Don't let the door fall and catch a finger. The trip mechanism is a square pad of wire that rests just above the floor. A length of chain connects the pad to the long rod above. If an animal steps down hard and depresses the trip pad, the chain will pull the long rod back far enough so it unhooks itself from the short rod. This action allows the rings to fall down and release the door so it can close and trap the animal inside.
If a trap is too big for the size and weight of the lost dog (smaller dogs especially), its trip mechanism should be adjusted for pressure sensitivity. Place a rock or brick on the trip plate or pad - off to the side and away from the rod or chain, leaving room for the dog to step through. Test the trap by simulating the dog's weight and applying pressure to the trip plate or pad until it trips. You can test using a dog of similar size (best), your hands (very good), or by poking a stick on it (only tests basic trap function).
The best location to put a trap is in the immediate area where you have one or more verified sightings. DON'T DELAY. Knock on doors, pass out fliers, and tell people your dog's been seen in the vicinity.
To encourage animal-friendly residents to offer the use of their yards, mention that you're looking for places your dog may find attractive so you can set up a cage trap. You must secure permission from a landowner before placing a trap on private property. If not sure who owns a parcel, ask the neighbors, police, or call the local assessor's office. If people let you use their property, treat it respectfully and be considerate of people's right to privacy. Many residents won't appreciate you walking through their yard with a flashlight at 10 PM and making a lot of noise. Choose the location where to set a trap carefully.
Overly curious children, a noisy yard, or "happy to help" adults, can hinder your best efforts. A good site allows the dog to wander up to a trap without feeling threatened, and makes it relatively easy for you to monitor without disturbing anyone. A trap should be sheltered next to a building or solid fence, placed near the beginning of a path the dog used, or set at the edge of a lawn abutting a field or wooded area.
If needed, level the ground to ensure the trap remains steady and doesn't wobble when a dog steps inside.
Dogs are always looking for food, so make the bait irresistible! Meatballs with red sauce, turkey meat, peanut butter smeared on meat, and of course, wet dog food. Cat food attracts cats very quickly.
De-bone meats unless using a solid beef bone - don't risk having someone's pet choke on your bait food.
HOT DOGS make great bait food. Raw or cooked - easy to package, carry, and toss bite-size tidbits.
Place food in a small bowl and set it at the rear of cage. You can put a few tidbits in the entrance or leave a tiny appetizer outside. Don't leave food underneath the opened door. A dog could accidentally push it upward enough to dislodge the hooks and the door will close rapidly - just as if the trap was tripped.
Don't leave too much food outside a trap - the goal is to entice a hungry dog inside to get the main meal. Try to make the food hard to reach so the dog will step more forcefully on the trip plate. Attach hot dogs or a hunk of solid meat to the top rear corner of the cage using a sturdy cord (string is a choking hazard). Affix bacon strips or hot dogs to a paper plate and attach to the back wall. Insects, small rodents, warm weather, and freezing temperatures take a toll on food - so check and refresh the bait as needed.
Cold or frozen bait can be thawed in a plastic bag tossed on the dash with the defroster set on high.
Provide water in a bowl and keep it filled - finding a natural source may lead the dog out of the area.
Local pets often steal food left outside during the day. A number of animals, including the lost dog, can steal food left outside all night. With luck, you'll find paw prints on the ground. If not, dusting the ground with fine wood ashes or powdered chalk may help you identify the food bandit.
A trap can still be set, look undisturbed, and yet the bowl is empty. An animal can steal the bait and leave with a full belly if it isn't heavy enough to trip a trap. Lost dogs are cautious and tend to stretch out their bodies when entering traps. They can also lean over trip plates to steal food, and carefully back out with their prize. A cage should be long enough to accommodate the length of a dog when standing, fully stretched out just at the trip mechanism. If it isn't, a tripped door may attempt to close but hit the dog's rump instead. The dog will be trapped if it moves forward - but if it backs up far enough, the door will be cleared to spring shut, leaving the dog outside and still "lost."
If the dog constantly goes up to a trap, but won't go inside, it might just need a little more time. If not, keep it coming back to the spot by feeding it. Multiple meals are okay, but don't overfeed. Offer a small amount of food, always using the same bowl, and gradually move it closer to the trap. When you finally put it inside, tempt the dog with a nice and fresh aromatic morsel just inside the entrance and make it want to go all the way past the trip pad for more of the good stuff.
Prepare a trap for success. Some dogs will back out of a trap once they step onto and feel bare wire.
To provide solid footing, cover the floor with a towel, rug, or small blanket. If it's going to rain or the ground is already soaked, a floor's cover will get wet. To help keep it dry, use a rubber bathmat, tarp, tablecloth, or shower curtain as a waterproof barrier. When used inside as a base layer for the floor, cover it with a towel or blanket, and check to make sure it won't be slippery when the dog steps inside. Make sure the trap doesn't slide around on top of a tarp or other slick surface. A small fleece blanket can be bunched up to disguise the natural rise of the trip plate but arrange carefully so it won't fall beneath a trip plate or trip pad. It won't work if not fully depressed as the dog is stepping on it. You can also place a stick a few inches in front of the trip plate. A dog must step over the stick and a paw should land directly on the trip plate. Adjust the stick's location to where you expect the dog to place its paw/s.
Familiar "scent" items, such as bedding, a hairbrush, or favorite toy, should be used to entice your dog into the trap - blankets to used as floor covers and most other items placed at the rear of the cage. To increase the odds a dog will trip the trap, tie a toy with a short line to the top rear corner of the trap so the dog has to really work his feet to get it. The person most bonded to the dog should place a worn and unwashed article of clothing, such as a T-shirt, inside the trap. To attract the dog, leave a pile of worn clothing in close proximity to the trap or at any sighting location. Things from a foster home, shelter or rescue worker can be used, as well as scent from another dog - if the lost dog is familiar and will be comforted by them. Fabric that smells of puppies may interest a female dog and evoke maternal instincts. The scent of a female dog in season should attract a male, whether he's neutered or not. Put items in a trap that your dog finds familiar or interesting, but leave enough room for it to walk in, turn around, and be comfortable for a short time. Cramming a big comforter into the trap reduces interior space, and may discourage a dog from going inside - unless you're trying to catch an extremely small dog. Long-arm grabber tongs help retrieve and arrange items inside.
Cage traps are covered to protect animals from exposure and keep the interior dry and more inviting. Covers made specifically to fit traps are available, but you can work a trap easily enough without them.
Tarps are inexpensive and old blankets are easy to find at a thrift store. Baby blankets provide coziness. Alternate layers for insulation and waterproofing, especially during cold weather with frigid winds. Wrap or trim covers so they don't fall or blow into the entrance and prevent the door from closing securely. Fix loose ends that might flap in the breeze and scare the dog away. Camouflage materials like burlap, pine boughs, leaves, and small branches help weigh down covers and make a trap more natural looking.
Dogs seem less suspicious of traps that are dressed like dens. A bale of straw provides insulation, can be torn apart easily and left most places when you're done with it. A little straw or a few leaves placed just inside the trap's entrance gives it a natural look and hides the few inches of exposed wire. Inside and out, the entrance must be clear of rocks, pinecones, sticks, and stumps that can keep a door from closing and latching shut. If the trap was dragged, check for debris underneath the trip plate and pad.
List two names with 24/7 contact phone numbers on a flier or piece of paper, seal it in a weatherproof bag, and attach to the trap in case of emergency. A small white cloth (or other noticeable color) may be attached to the entry so you can see from a distance if the door's been tripped. This tip isn't a substitute for walking up to the trap and checking on it as required, but can help with excessive monitoring.
Established law sets minimum times required to check traps, but more frequent monitoring is highly recommended, especially during extreme weather conditions. Time is precious and opportunities are wasted when a dog approaches a trap and an "unwanted guest" already occupies it. Residents won't appreciate your presence if their pets disappear and are found hours later in your trap. Monitoring reduces the problem of catching local pets that are allowed to wander on a routine basis.
ALWAYS wash your hands after handling things an animal might have licked, marked with urine, or left traces of blood or scat on, including dishes, bedding, toys, and the trap.
Anyone working traps needs to know how to release "guests" in a safe manner, before a situation arises. A trapped animal will be frightened and may try to defend itself with a chemical weapon (skunk), or intimidate you by showing its sharp teeth. Many will back up into a corner of the cage when they see you approach. Watch your fingers when you open an exit door; then walk away to give them space and a few minutes to come out on their own. If the trap is covered and you approach wicked slowly, without excess body movements, you may not get skunked.
Don't rush to let your dog out of a trap without thinking. A caged dog is often scared, excited, and confused - and can bolt out the door - right past your waiting arms. If possible, transport the trap to a home, vet's office, or animal shelter, and then release your dog inside the building. If your dog is not known to be a jumper or a climber, you can use a kennel enclosure or a secure yard with tall fencing.
WARNING! If you're small enough to fit in the trap - STOP before you crawl in to make adjustments.
If the trap has a spring-loaded door: Prop up the door with a sturdy stick, keep a leg outside the entrance, and bring a cell phone and a couple of wire coat hangers inside with you. It's easier than you think to accidentally depress the trip mechanism and get trapped inside. If there's a rear door, you unhook its handle at top on the trap and push the door up so you can crawl out. If not, you must bend a hanger and use it to push the entry door's latching clip/s up, and then reach through the wire grids to pull the door towards you. The job is not easy. It's scary to hear a trap door slam down behind you, and a humbling experience to be so stupid. Don't put yourself at risk if you don't know how to get out a trap or don't have the means to do so, especially in remote locations or in foul weather. It's funny after you're safely outside. Been there, done that, and caught myself in three sizes of traps. Got the witnesses to prove it.
© 2005 Debbie Hall - Used With Permission
If the dog constantly goes up to a trap, but won't go inside, it might just need a little more time. If not, keep it coming back to the spot by feeding it. Multiple meals are okay, but don't overfeed. Offer a small amount of food, always using the same bowl, and gradually move it closer to the trap. When you finally put it inside, tempt the dog with a nice and fresh aromatic morsel just inside the entrance and make it want to go all the way past the trip pad for more of the good stuff.
Prepare a trap for success. Some dogs will back out of a trap once they step onto and feel bare wire.
To provide solid footing, cover the floor with a towel, rug, or small blanket. If it's going to rain or the ground is already soaked, a floor's cover will get wet. To help keep it dry, use a rubber bathmat, tarp, tablecloth, or shower curtain as a waterproof barrier. When used inside as a base layer for the floor, cover it with a towel or blanket, and check to make sure it won't be slippery when the dog steps inside. Make sure the trap doesn't slide around on top of a tarp or other slick surface. A small fleece blanket can be bunched up to disguise the natural rise of the trip plate but arrange carefully so it won't fall beneath a trip plate or trip pad. It won't work if not fully depressed as the dog is stepping on it. You can also place a stick a few inches in front of the trip plate. A dog must step over the stick and a paw should land directly on the trip plate. Adjust the stick's location to where you expect the dog to place its paw/s.
Familiar "scent" items, such as bedding, a hairbrush, or favorite toy, should be used to entice your dog into the trap - blankets to used as floor covers and most other items placed at the rear of the cage. To increase the odds a dog will trip the trap, tie a toy with a short line to the top rear corner of the trap so the dog has to really work his feet to get it. The person most bonded to the dog should place a worn and unwashed article of clothing, such as a T-shirt, inside the trap. To attract the dog, leave a pile of worn clothing in close proximity to the trap or at any sighting location. Things from a foster home, shelter or rescue worker can be used, as well as scent from another dog - if the lost dog is familiar and will be comforted by them. Fabric that smells of puppies may interest a female dog and evoke maternal instincts. The scent of a female dog in season should attract a male, whether he's neutered or not. Put items in a trap that your dog finds familiar or interesting, but leave enough room for it to walk in, turn around, and be comfortable for a short time. Cramming a big comforter into the trap reduces interior space, and may discourage a dog from going inside - unless you're trying to catch an extremely small dog. Long-arm grabber tongs help retrieve and arrange items inside.
Cage traps are covered to protect animals from exposure and keep the interior dry and more inviting. Covers made specifically to fit traps are available, but you can work a trap easily enough without them.
Tarps are inexpensive and old blankets are easy to find at a thrift store. Baby blankets provide coziness. Alternate layers for insulation and waterproofing, especially during cold weather with frigid winds. Wrap or trim covers so they don't fall or blow into the entrance and prevent the door from closing securely. Fix loose ends that might flap in the breeze and scare the dog away. Camouflage materials like burlap, pine boughs, leaves, and small branches help weigh down covers and make a trap more natural looking.
Dogs seem less suspicious of traps that are dressed like dens. A bale of straw provides insulation, can be torn apart easily and left most places when you're done with it. A little straw or a few leaves placed just inside the trap's entrance gives it a natural look and hides the few inches of exposed wire. Inside and out, the entrance must be clear of rocks, pinecones, sticks, and stumps that can keep a door from closing and latching shut. If the trap was dragged, check for debris underneath the trip plate and pad.
List two names with 24/7 contact phone numbers on a flier or piece of paper, seal it in a weatherproof bag, and attach to the trap in case of emergency. A small white cloth (or other noticeable color) may be attached to the entry so you can see from a distance if the door's been tripped. This tip isn't a substitute for walking up to the trap and checking on it as required, but can help with excessive monitoring.
Established law sets minimum times required to check traps, but more frequent monitoring is highly recommended, especially during extreme weather conditions. Time is precious and opportunities are wasted when a dog approaches a trap and an "unwanted guest" already occupies it. Residents won't appreciate your presence if their pets disappear and are found hours later in your trap. Monitoring reduces the problem of catching local pets that are allowed to wander on a routine basis.
ALWAYS wash your hands after handling things an animal might have licked, marked with urine, or left traces of blood or scat on, including dishes, bedding, toys, and the trap.
Anyone working traps needs to know how to release "guests" in a safe manner, before a situation arises. A trapped animal will be frightened and may try to defend itself with a chemical weapon (skunk), or intimidate you by showing its sharp teeth. Many will back up into a corner of the cage when they see you approach. Watch your fingers when you open an exit door; then walk away to give them space and a few minutes to come out on their own. If the trap is covered and you approach wicked slowly, without excess body movements, you may not get skunked.
Don't rush to let your dog out of a trap without thinking. A caged dog is often scared, excited, and confused - and can bolt out the door - right past your waiting arms. If possible, transport the trap to a home, vet's office, or animal shelter, and then release your dog inside the building. If your dog is not known to be a jumper or a climber, you can use a kennel enclosure or a secure yard with tall fencing.
WARNING! If you're small enough to fit in the trap - STOP before you crawl in to make adjustments.
If the trap has a spring-loaded door: Prop up the door with a sturdy stick, keep a leg outside the entrance, and bring a cell phone and a couple of wire coat hangers inside with you. It's easier than you think to accidentally depress the trip mechanism and get trapped inside. If there's a rear door, you unhook its handle at top on the trap and push the door up so you can crawl out. If not, you must bend a hanger and use it to push the entry door's latching clip/s up, and then reach through the wire grids to pull the door towards you. The job is not easy. It's scary to hear a trap door slam down behind you, and a humbling experience to be so stupid. Don't put yourself at risk if you don't know how to get out a trap or don't have the means to do so, especially in remote locations or in foul weather. It's funny after you're safely outside. Been there, done that, and caught myself in three sizes of traps. Got the witnesses to prove it.
© 2005 Debbie Hall - Used With Permission
Prepare a trap for success. Some dogs will back out of a trap once they step onto and feel bare wire.
To provide solid footing, cover the floor with a towel, rug, or small blanket. If it's going to rain or the ground is already soaked, a floor's cover will get wet. To help keep it dry, use a rubber bathmat, tarp, tablecloth, or shower curtain as a waterproof barrier. When used inside as a base layer for the floor, cover it with a towel or blanket, and check to make sure it won't be slippery when the dog steps inside. Make sure the trap doesn't slide around on top of a tarp or other slick surface. A small fleece blanket can be bunched up to disguise the natural rise of the trip plate but arrange carefully so it won't fall beneath a trip plate or trip pad. It won't work if not fully depressed as the dog is stepping on it. You can also place a stick a few inches in front of the trip plate. A dog must step over the stick and a paw should land directly on the trip plate. Adjust the stick's location to where you expect the dog to place its paw/s.
Familiar "scent" items, such as bedding, a hairbrush, or favorite toy, should be used to entice your dog into the trap - blankets to used as floor covers and most other items placed at the rear of the cage. To increase the odds a dog will trip the trap, tie a toy with a short line to the top rear corner of the trap so the dog has to really work his feet to get it. The person most bonded to the dog should place a worn and unwashed article of clothing, such as a T-shirt, inside the trap. To attract the dog, leave a pile of worn clothing in close proximity to the trap or at any sighting location. Things from a foster home, shelter or rescue worker can be used, as well as scent from another dog - if the lost dog is familiar and will be comforted by them. Fabric that smells of puppies may interest a female dog and evoke maternal instincts. The scent of a female dog in season should attract a male, whether he's neutered or not. Put items in a trap that your dog finds familiar or interesting, but leave enough room for it to walk in, turn around, and be comfortable for a short time. Cramming a big comforter into the trap reduces interior space, and may discourage a dog from going inside - unless you're trying to catch an extremely small dog. Long-arm grabber tongs help retrieve and arrange items inside.
Cage traps are covered to protect animals from exposure and keep the interior dry and more inviting. Covers made specifically to fit traps are available, but you can work a trap easily enough without them.
Tarps are inexpensive and old blankets are easy to find at a thrift store. Baby blankets provide coziness. Alternate layers for insulation and waterproofing, especially during cold weather with frigid winds. Wrap or trim covers so they don't fall or blow into the entrance and prevent the door from closing securely. Fix loose ends that might flap in the breeze and scare the dog away. Camouflage materials like burlap, pine boughs, leaves, and small branches help weigh down covers and make a trap more natural looking.
Dogs seem less suspicious of traps that are dressed like dens. A bale of straw provides insulation, can be torn apart easily and left most places when you're done with it. A little straw or a few leaves placed just inside the trap's entrance gives it a natural look and hides the few inches of exposed wire. Inside and out, the entrance must be clear of rocks, pinecones, sticks, and stumps that can keep a door from closing and latching shut. If the trap was dragged, check for debris underneath the trip plate and pad.
List two names with 24/7 contact phone numbers on a flier or piece of paper, seal it in a weatherproof bag, and attach to the trap in case of emergency. A small white cloth (or other noticeable color) may be attached to the entry so you can see from a distance if the door's been tripped. This tip isn't a substitute for walking up to the trap and checking on it as required, but can help with excessive monitoring.
Established law sets minimum times required to check traps, but more frequent monitoring is highly recommended, especially during extreme weather conditions. Time is precious and opportunities are wasted when a dog approaches a trap and an "unwanted guest" already occupies it. Residents won't appreciate your presence if their pets disappear and are found hours later in your trap. Monitoring reduces the problem of catching local pets that are allowed to wander on a routine basis.
ALWAYS wash your hands after handling things an animal might have licked, marked with urine, or left traces of blood or scat on, including dishes, bedding, toys, and the trap.
Anyone working traps needs to know how to release "guests" in a safe manner, before a situation arises. A trapped animal will be frightened and may try to defend itself with a chemical weapon (skunk), or intimidate you by showing its sharp teeth. Many will back up into a corner of the cage when they see you approach. Watch your fingers when you open an exit door; then walk away to give them space and a few minutes to come out on their own. If the trap is covered and you approach wicked slowly, without excess body movements, you may not get skunked.
Don't rush to let your dog out of a trap without thinking. A caged dog is often scared, excited, and confused - and can bolt out the door - right past your waiting arms. If possible, transport the trap to a home, vet's office, or animal shelter, and then release your dog inside the building. If your dog is not known to be a jumper or a climber, you can use a kennel enclosure or a secure yard with tall fencing.
WARNING! If you're small enough to fit in the trap - STOP before you crawl in to make adjustments.
If the trap has a spring-loaded door: Prop up the door with a sturdy stick, keep a leg outside the entrance, and bring a cell phone and a couple of wire coat hangers inside with you. It's easier than you think to accidentally depress the trip mechanism and get trapped inside. If there's a rear door, you unhook its handle at top on the trap and push the door up so you can crawl out. If not, you must bend a hanger and use it to push the entry door's latching clip/s up, and then reach through the wire grids to pull the door towards you. The job is not easy. It's scary to hear a trap door slam down behind you, and a humbling experience to be so stupid. Don't put yourself at risk if you don't know how to get out a trap or don't have the means to do so, especially in remote locations or in foul weather. It's funny after you're safely outside. Been there, done that, and caught myself in three sizes of traps. Got the witnesses to prove it.
© 2005 Debbie Hall - Used With Permission
Changing Lives, One Havanese At a Time.
